Al Mokawloon, which Salah refers to by its English name, Arab Contractors, relies in Nasr City, a suburb of Cairo 82 miles south of Salah's hometown. So every morning Salah would go to excessive school at 7 a.m., then go away after two hours and stroll a mile past jasmine fields to a bus stop. There he boarded a microbus—a camper van crammed with three and even four rows of seats—to close by Basyoun. From Basyoun he'd catch another to Tanta; from Tanta to Cairo's bustling Ramses Square; and at last a fourth to the training ground in Nasr City. “Half an hour, one hour, then two hours, then ma